At Shjark, our commitment to quality and craftsmanship is deeply rooted in our dedication to local production. With our 2024 collections, we proudly continue our tradition of creating exquisite garments right here in New Zealand. Discover the story behind our New Zealand-made pieces and the meticulous process that ensures each item meets our exacting standards.
A Legacy of Local Craftsmanship
Since Shjark's inception, our collections have been entirely made in New Zealand, excluding only our fully fashioned knitwear. With a background in designing for various iconic NZ brands spanning two decades, our Founder and Designer, Amber deeply values her strong industry relationships built over the years. These relationships with makers and suppliers are more than just business connections; they are friendships built on mutual respect and a shared dedication to quality.
The Importance of Local Production
Crafting our garments in New Zealand holds immense significance. It's not just about supporting local industries but also about maintaining standards of craftsmanship and ethical production. Being able to oversee the entire manufacturing process ensures that each piece meets our standards of quality and integrity. Shjark is committed to making locally while the industry evolves, but ultimately, the focus remains on quality, wherever that leads us.
Commitment to Ethical Practices
Following the inception of Mindful Fashion, of which Shjark has been a founding member, all suppliers adhere to a code of conduct. This ensures operations are above legal standards in New Zealand and maintain ethical practices throughout the supply chain. Being part of Mindful Fashion represents a commitment to ethical and sustainable practices within the fashion industry, providing valuable insights and resources to micro businesses like ours.
Balancing Quality and Local Production
This season marks the first time since pre-COVID that Shjark has introduced a garment into the range made offshore. The reason behind this decision was to allow us to reintroduce knitwear into the collection, but only when completely satisfied with its quality. While New Zealand's skill set is extensive, sometimes it's necessary to look further afield to find the best. Despite this exception, the overwhelming majority of the AW24 collection remains proudly NZ-made.
Behind the Scenes: The Making Process
Creating a garment at Shjark involves many hands and a meticulous process:
- Designer: The creative vision starts here.
- Pattern Cutter: Transforms designs into patterns.
- Fabric and Trim Suppliers: Each garment requires a minimum of three suppliers.
- Grading and Marker Making: A separate company prepares patterns for production.
- Cutter: Ensures precision in cutting fabrics.
- Makers: Includes in-house staff and outworkers, offering flexibility.
- Buttons/Buttonholes and Trim Attachment: Often separate from the makers.
- Presser: A separate company ensures a polished finish.
- Quality Control: Conducted in-house at Shjark to maintain high standards.
Fabric Sourcing: A Careful Selection
Shjark sources fabrics primarily locally, which includes utilising deadstock fabrics from larger brands all over the world that have over ordered or discontinued certain lines. This sustainable approach reduces waste and ensures high quality materials at a lower cost. Additionally, we import fabrics directly from mills in Japan and China. While this is a more expensive option, it ensures us the highest quality fabrics that are integral to Shjark’s reputation for excellence.
The process of fabric sourcing is meticulous and time-consuming, including challenges associated with sourcing from overseas, but Amber’s experience and stringent sampling process considers composition, texture, colour, and suitability for each garment, and ensures we identify and select the very best fabrics.
Precision in Cutting
Cutting is a critical stage in garment production, demanding precision and attention to detail; involving carefully laying out the fabric according to the pattern and cutting it to the required shape and size. Whether done manually or using automated cutting machines, precision is key to achieving consistent results. A good cutter pays attention to detail, ensuring that each piece of fabric is cut accurately to minimise wastage and maximise efficiency. Additionally, they play a crucial role in identifying any flaws or irregularities in the fabric that may affect the quality of the final garment.
As the traditional art of fabric cutting dwindles in New Zealand, skilled cutters play a pivotal role in ensuring the seamless execution of production and preemptively identifying potential issues. This blend of technology and craftsmanship underscores the enduring importance of skilled professionals in maintaining garment quality and integrity.
Sewing: Crafting the Garment
After cutting, the fabric pieces move to the sewing stage, often involving different suppliers or subcontractors. This division of labour allows for specialisation and efficiency, ensuring each garment is constructed to the highest standards of quality and craftsmanship. At Shjark we use a different supplier for each of the different types of garments we make, with very specialised knit, blouse, jacket, and trouser makers.
Amber collaborates closely during this process with our sewing contractors, providing detailed instructions and specifications, and conducting quality control checks to ensure consistency and excellence in every garment.
Final Touches: Perfection Before Presentation
The finalisation stage involves:
- Quality Control Checks: Rigorous inspections to ensure perfection.
- Hardware Attachment: Placement of buttons, zippers, or clasps.
- Pressing and Steaming: Eliminating wrinkles for a polished appearance.
- Finishing Touches: Enhancing aesthetic appeal and functionality.
Considerations Behind the Scenes
So you can see now that every garment involves numerous steps, each requiring unique skills and resources. We hope this article provides a fresh appreciation for the complexity and craftsmanship involved in creating your Shjark clothing. From design and development costs, fabric sourcing, and cutting, to sewing, hardware, and finishing touches, every detail is meticulously managed.
FURTHER READING
